Gengenbach, Neustadt, Meckenbeuren, and Bacharach
By BIGTYKE
I was surprised one day when out of the blue, Tykewife said "We could take a trip to Germany". I replied
"This year?". "Yes". I went to the computer and started playing around with our frequent flyer
miles to see if we could get over there for "free". There were several flights available but the ones
using the lower amounts of miles were not convenient. However, we did have enough miles to use the higher mileage
flights and I found flights that would work. It cost us 180,000 miles (total). Our trip in Dec. 2011 had only cost
us 160,000 for us and the two kids! We would be going American to Miami where we would transfer to Air Berlin for
the legs to Berlin and back to Frankfurt. On return, just like in 2011, it would be Frankfurt to Dallas to Denver,
all on American . Taxes were $297.40
Tykewife seemed to indicate that she wanted to go places we hadn't visited before. Since returning from our 2011
trip, I had been putting together ideas for another trip. Most of that was assuming that we would be cycling for
much of it. That wouldn't work this time because Tykewife would need a new knee before that was possible. I had
only been to the Black Forest area for a couple of days in 1970 so I thought we would make that area the focus
of the trip.
I mentioned to Tykewife that we could made a day trip into France, so she could use her French language skills
(She was a French minor in college). Then she said that it would be nice to go to Paris for a few days and also
another few in the Loire Valley. Ooops! Too much for this trip I convinced her, but it looks like the French trip
will have to be our next overseas jaunt!
I suggested that we might want to drive a car on the trip. That was promptly vetoed which was o.k. since we both
like taking the trains, and with the KONUS Card, the Black Forest portion of the trip would have free transportation.
I knew I wanted to stay the last days in Bacharach on the Rhine, so we could get an early morning train to the
airport. While we had finished our last trip there, the river boats weren't working at that time and Tykewife had
never taken the Rhine River trip. I emailed the tourist office and asked them to make a reservation for me at the
same place we had stayed before - Irmgard Orth's. We would be there for 4 nights. The tourist office responded
the next day with a confirmation. Excellent!
Every other place would be new to both of us.
I found a place in Gengenbach that looked nice. I filled out a form on the town website (www.stadt-gengenbach.de).
After a week, no response. I filled it our again, saying that this was the second inquiry. The fewo had no email.
A few days later I received a letter saying the fewo was available. I needed to send a 50 Euro deposit. They provided
the bank account number for an international wire transfer. I went to the bank and of course, the person there
had never done one before. He got the home office on the phone and they figured out what to do. The EUR 50 was
sent. The fee for this was $45.00 !!. My rate on the Euro as 1.3224 - including the fee, the rate was $2.22 - yikes!
I decided that our second stop in the Black Forest would be Titisee-Neustadt. Whoa, some of the places were pretty
expensive, and some of the less expensive places and those mentioned on Bavaria Ben's website were out of town.
I wanted to be in town, fairly near the train station. I found one and filled out the online form. No answer for
a week. I tried again and got a prompt resonse. The owner had been in the hospital having shoulder surgery! I would
need to pay in early Sept., again by wire transfer.
I had originally though about staying in Ravensburg for 5 days, but I was unable to find a place that was available
for those days. I looked around and found a place in nearby Meckenbeuren, located only a short walk from the train
station. An internet inquiry was answered the next day and our last place was booked.
Now it was just to wait for about 6 months.
Two other tasks were to be completed. When I booked the flights, I was able to select the seats for the American
flights, but not for the Air Berlin segments. I had to call AA to get the confirmation code for my Air Berlin flights.
I couldn't make the seat selections online - it looked like I would have to wait until I checked in!
When we took a trip to Germany in Dec. 2011, we bought our train tickets from Frankfurt to Stuttgart on the day
of our arrival. It proved pretty expensive. I decided to get tickets in advance (92 days in advance). So on June
26, I used the internet to purchase tickets from Frankfurt to Gengenbach. This was quite a savings - 29 euro for
the both of us as compared to 102 standard fare. That price was even cheaper than the Quer-Durchs-Land ticket,
and it would be on faster trains!. It was an extra 8 euro to have a reserved seat. Since our last time with no
seat reservation we had to change seats 2-3 times, I thought the 8 euro was worth it. The only downside is the
tickets are for one specific set of trains. We allowed 3 hours from our scheduled arrival time to the train departure
time. It is somewhat of a gamble since our last trip was delayed a day and 4 of my last 7 transatlantic flights
have been late! We'll see if the gamble paid off.
A couple of weeks later I purchased tickets from Meckenbeuren to Bachrach for 49 + 8 (reservation) = 57 euro. No
worry about missing these trains since we would already be in Meckenbeuren! The first of the train trips was at
$1.31 per Euro, the second at $1.29. Total foreign transaction fee charged was $3.65. (total 48.41 + 73.50 + 3.65
= 125.56 or 1.336 per Euro)
On August 10, I received an email from American Airlines. The flight had been changed. Luckily just the segment
to Miami and just leaving 20 minutes later.
When the family went to Germany in 2011, we had not only our bank account but also the two boys accounts to draw
on if there was a problem. Since we were going alone, we needed to have a second account to use an ATM on. So we
deposited the cash I received from selling my 27 year old Bronco into a different bank.
A month prior to the trip, I sent in payment for our 3 days in Titisee-Neustadt. I used the second bank since its
fee for the wire transfer was $10 less than the other bank, The amount for the 3 nights is 137.60 euro. With conversion
and fee, the total was $226.61 (1.65). Clearly avoiding wire transfers (especially for small amounts) is to be
desired if possible.
Tuesday, Sept. 24
We got up at 3:00 AM. Tykewife tried to stay up all night but fell asleep about 1:00 AM. At 3:45 the SuperShuttle
van came to pick us up and drive us to Loveland where we got their bus to the Denver Airport. At 7:50 we boarded
the plane for an uneventful flight to Miami. At Miami we had a long, long walk from the gate to Terminal F. Termimal
F is not even shown on most of the maps in the airport, but we kept following the infrequent signs. There were
only 2 sections of moving sidewalks - one of which was not working. I will never change planes in Miami again!
The plane to Berlin was late and we would miss the connection to Frankfurt. The Air Berlin staff was on top of
this and had us rescheduled before we even checked in in Miami. The airline assigned us seats which were ok. The
flight to Berlin was fine.
Wednesday, Sept. 25
Neither of us slept on the flight, watching 2 movies and a TV program. My headset was not the best and so I wasn't
able to watch one movie that Tykewife was able to. In Berlin we had to take a bus from where we landed to the terminal.
It was quicker since we could de-plane from 3 exits. Passport control was easy then a not-too-long walk to the
next gate. The gate area was blocked off and there were few places to sit while we waited the couple of hours for
the next flight. I used the ATM and we had a snack.
Eventually we were let into the boarding area, going through a very short security check. One of our bags was over
the 8 kg weight limit so it had to be checked through - no charge. Two flights were boarding from the area at the
same time and we almost got into the wrong line! Fortunately, the ticket checking machine caught our error. We
took a bus out to the plane. It had FLYNIKI.COM on the plane - What kind of airline was this? I then spotted a
small 'Air Berlin" sticker on it, so I guessed it was the right plane. A short, fine flight to Frankfurt where
I collected the bag and went through without seeing anyone in the "Nothing to Declare" customs area.
Bus to the Fernbahnhof.
Since the train for my pre-bought tickets was long gone, I had to buy tickets for the train to Gengenbach - 106
Euros. Since we were arriving late, I called the landlady to tell her we would be arriving late. The ICE train
was crowded and we had to stand between the cars until the first stop in Mannheim. At Offenburg we changed from
the ICE to the local train system with its light rail type cars [Ortenau S-Bahn (OSB)].
We walked to the apartment, following the map I had printed from Google maps. The fewo doesn't have a sign and
we walked right by it. We stopped at a pharmacy to ask directions (and to get some liniment for Tykewife's knee).
Dr. Wink checked us in, gave us our KONUS card, and we went to our apartment - up 46 steps on the third floor (as
Americans count). Exhausted, we quickly fell asleep.
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Ferienwohnungen Wink
Dr. Annette Wink
Victor-Kretz-Str 11-13
77723 Gengenbach
Tel - 7803/2682
Dr. Wink speaks very little English. In addition to German, she speaks French (which was good since Tykewife also
speaks French)
Our apartment consisted of a bedroom with two beds put together (so essentially a king bed), kitchen, bathroom,
second toilet, large living room. Two other bedrooms are part of the apartment but were closed off for us. 36 E
per day plus tax (2.20 per person per day).
The building was built in 1699 and was the city council's chambers. It is right on the main square. Two sets of
bells can be heard throughout the day. We slept with the windows open and they did not bother us, but I can see
that it might bother some. Dr. Wink is very friendly.
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Thursday, Sept. 26
We slept until about 9:00 AM when I went across the street to a bakery to get bread and coffee for breakfast. Later
we walked down the street through the tower (Kinzigtorturm) and across the Kinzig River. We walked by the rafting
museum and along the levee by the river. Back in town we found a grocery store and stocked up on basics for the
next 4 days. The tourist office was near the fewo and I picked up a free town map. It had a insert showing a walking
tour (stadtrundgang). There are small bronze markers in the sidewalk to make it easy to follow. I also asked if
there was an internet cafe in town. It turned out to be just outside the other town tower.
We went to the internet cafe and emailed everyone to tell them we had arrived safely. Tykewife could not use her
Yahoo email account, a problem she never did get fixed during the trip. My Comcast account worked well. Internet
was about 3 Euro per hour.
For dinner I ate at a Kebap place, having an excellent (and very large) gyro. Tykewife ate across the street at
a Thai buffet. We stopped at a pastry shop and had a carrot cake on the way back to the fewo.
Friday, Sept. 27
Up at 7:00 I took a nice shower. The shower had a temperature dial on it, making the setting of the water temperature
easy and accurate. I had a very good muesli for breakfast while Tykewife scrambled eggs for herself. Down to the
train station where we took the 10:12 light rail train to Hausach where we got the #7150 bus for a quick trip to
the Vogtsbauernhof. I'm glad we took the bus as it is a little longer than Tykewife would have been up for. We
entered the outdoor museum and got the audio guide. The audio guide did not work very well for us. There must be
something about my fingers that touch screens don't pick up because I can never get good results. What little we
did hear was more than we wanted to hear. I would prefer a written guide with a paragraph or two about each building.
We spent a couple of hours there. I enjoyed watching a workman repairing a thatched roof and Tykewife enjoyed sampling
the cherry schnapps! She also enjoyed seeing the sheep, horses, goats and geese.
We then walked the short distance to the Rodelbahn. We put our bag and my hat in a locker (2 E, refunded) and each
took a ride (2.50 each). I used the camera to take a video on the way down. Once was enough for Tykewife, but I
had two more rides. There was virtually no waiting and I would have liked to take even more rides, but we needed
to get going to catch the bus. We walked back to the Vogtsbauernhof and had only a few minute wait for the bus
back to the train.
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Monday, Sept. 30
After breakfast we straightened the apartment - Tykewife always leaves them tidy. There was not a guestbook but
Dr. Wink was very pleased that we liked the apartment. Except for the 46 steps, it would be hard to beat.
On the way to the train station, we went in the post office to mail some post cards - a relic from the past that
we haven't given up yet! The train ride to Neustadt was nice. We were in the upper level at the end of the car
where there was just one seat on each side and plenty of room for luggage. That was good because the overhead racks
were pretty small. Lots of tunnels on the route. I didn't get the feeling that we were curving around a whole lot,
even though it is apparent from looking at the route that there are plenty of curves. A conductor checked our tickets
- the first time except for the ICE train. He was very helpful, asking where we were going and telling us where
we would have to change and what track the train would depart from. Apparently he was very humorous as there was
lots of laughter as he talked to the other passengers.
We got off at Donaueschingen with 30 minutes to wait. I tried to get some candy from a vending machine, but no
luck so I went out of the train station to a nearby newsstand where I was able to get something to eat. Soon we
were on the train and arrived at Neustadt, Frau Heitz greeted us as we exited the underpass stairs. She drove us
the 200 yards or so to the house. It was a nice new car and I think she needs more practice in shifting! After
checking us in and giving us the KONUS cards, she offered to drive me to a supermarket where I picked up supplies.
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We had a brief look at the Sigmaringen castle as we entered the town. I had toured it years ago. While we waited
for the next train, we looked for a WC. There was a sign saying that there was one 200 M down the road. Well, we
couldn't find it! Fortunately our next train came before disaster! In Aulendorf, our next change station, the train
was 15 minutes late, but no big deal as we were soon in Meckenbeuren.
We oriented ourself to the map from Google and walked perhaps 200 yards where Frau Boos was waiting for us. The
room was on the second floor. Somewhat of a shock to go from a big apartment to a room not much bigger than the
bed and a bathroom. Still it was adequate. Breakfast was not included in the rent but we had use of the kitchen
where we used the refrigerator but did not cook there. Frau Boos brought the bill but I didn't have enough cash
and she was satisfied to be paid the next day.
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Haus am Geissbock
Famile Franz und Ulrike Boos
Bahnhof Str 6
88074 Meckenbeuron
Tel - 7542/21936
Email - info@haus-am-geissbock.de
Frau Boos speaks very little English. 50 E per day. Nice location not far from train station. On a road that is
busy at times. Crosswalk in front of house. At night there is not much traffic. If windows are closed, very little
noise.
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I walked around the town and used the ATM at a local bank. For dinner we ate at the nearby El Greco Greek restaurant.
I had an OK schnitzel while Tykewife had dolmades and spanakopita. They also gave us some ouzo. Tykewife took one
small sip and was almost sick. Since I don't drink. it didn't matter to me! The food was fine. I don't think it
was that meal, but Tykewife had a bad bout of stomach flu that night.
Friday, Oct. 4
Since Tykewife was feeling under the weather, I went out on my own for the day after getting some food supplies
at the supermarket near the bahnhof. I got the all day, all zone transportation pass for 13.80 E. for the BODO
system (Bodensee-Oberschwaben Bahn). I took the train to Freiedrichshafen, stopping first at the 'stadt' station
and then a very short way on at the 'hafen' station. Walking down the steps from the station, you are right at
the Zeppelin Museum. Admission was 8 E and audio guide was 3 E. I had to leave my driver's license as security.
The audio guide was an old fashioned one (rather than like at the Vogtsbauernhof) and I was able to operate it.
It did give me more information that I needed so I used it sparingly. Some exhibits had English descriptions. It
was an interesting museum. My mother-in-law claimed that she saw the Hindenberg explode. I especially liked the
display of Zeppelin medals and souvenirs.
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The internet cafe is closed on Monday and Tuesday so we weren't able to check email. We just finished up the leftover
food we had instead of going out for dinner. Frau Boos came by to ask us if she could take a picture of us for
the guestbook, and we wrote our entry in the book. From the ones we read, it appeared that we are the first Americans
to stay there.
Tuesday, Oct. 8
After I got breakfast food at the supermarket, I used the nearby ATM and discovered that I could specify the amount
and denominations I wanted, rather than the pre-specified amounts and denominations which tended to give an awful
lot of 50 E notes. I specified more 10 E and 20 E notes. The train to Ulm had plenty of seats and then we changed
to the IC train where fortunately we had reservations. Most people didn't and many had to stand. The train was
running late and we missed the connection at Bingen. While we were waiting for the next one, we talked to a couple
from Texas. They were using some sort of train pass that cost them about $900 each for 10 days of first class travel
- Yikes! There was no problem from the conductor with our ticket even though it was for the previous train. Of
course it wasn't our fault that we missed that one. We walked to our zimmer.
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Haus Irmgard Orth
Spurgasse 2
55422 Bacharach
Tel - 6743/1553
Bacharach Tourist Office
We had stayed with Frau Orth in Dec. 2011. We had the same room with the king sized bed and private bath. On the
third floor, but Tykewife was ok with the stairs. 20 E apiece with a nice breakfast. Frau asked what we wanted
for breakfast and I told her no egg for me, hot chocolate for me, egg and coffee for Tykewife. We also had wurst,
cheese and bread. Excellent honey. The house is not too far from the train tracks, but trains seem to whoosh through
the town rather than blowing their whistle and noisily clickety-clacking along. Frau Orth speaks very little English
but we did a good job communicating with our limited German.
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Frau Orth greeted us cheerfully and showed us to the room. Tykewife thought that maybe the room had been redecorated.
I walked around town and then Tykewife and I went to eat at Ben's recommended eatery - Cafe Rusticana. The cafe
is poorly identified with the 'Rusticana' sign in small letters a sign that is not very noticeable. I had the 1/4
chicken (excellent and served very hot) while Tykewife had goulash soup and the cold plate. Both of us thought
the food was excellent. Tykewife had apple strudel for desert - the best she has ever had - and I had chocolate
ice cream. Tykewife also had an excellent white wine.
Wednesday, October 9
The breakfast was excellent. I got the Rheinland-Pfalz-Ticket (RP) at the train station. First I tried by credit
card, but if I had selected a PIN when I got the card recently, I had forgotten it. So I tried cash and only exact
change was accepted. Luckily I had the 26 E. We trained to St. Goar and walked around. Not nearly as picturesque
as Bacharach. I asked at the tourist office where to catch the little train to the castle. It was at the other
end of the street, so we walked down. Tykewife needed to use the WC. Fortunately there is one near the little train
stop. Although there was a sign saying there was no toilet paper in the WC, in fact there was. There was no soap
however.
The little train was 4 E round trip - a good value as the castle is 300 feet above the town. We bought tickets
(4 E each) and got the English guide sheet. I really liked the location and the ruins. I had a flashlight for the
tunnels but did not explore them as much as last time. Oh well, I'm not as active as I was at 23!
Back down in town, we took the train to Koblenz. Funny how well we both remembered the layout of the station. I
had a nice bratwurst/baguette at one of the eateries (only 2.20 E) while Tykewife had a salmon sandwich. We walked
across the street to where they have internet. For some reason, they needed to check our passports. They asked
if we wanted anything to drink and Tykewife said white wine. No, they said, they can't serve alcohol. Certainly
we were in no casino in the US! We had cokes. We checked our email and when we went to pay for the cokes, they
said they were on the house!
Back at the bookstore in the Hbf, I found some cans of Mountain Dew so I bought a couple as well as a USA Today.
Mountain Dew has a fruitier taste in Germany than in the USA. Back in Bacharach, I walked along the Rhine before
going to the little grocery for supplies for a picnic dinner.
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We told the owner (Astrid Krzywicki) that we had tried to eat there in Dec. 2011, but the restaurant was closed
for remodeling. She then explained that after her husband died, she didn't want to stay open, essentially by herself,
for so few customers in the winter. So now she closes in November, sleeps for two weeks, and then does whatever
sprucing up that the place needs. Then in January and February she goes to somewhere warm, usually in the southern
hemisphere. She went first to Thailand and learned to SCUBA dive. The next two years she went to Australia and
Ecuador (and Galapagos Islands) where of course she did more SCUBA. This winter she is going to South Africa. A
day previously, she had met a couple from South Africa and it looks like she may visit them when she is there and
go diving with the wife - in a cage surrounded by great white sharks! Quite a lady!
Friday, Oct. 11
We took the 9:30 train to Bingen. It waited for a few minutes at the hbf before it went to the Bingen (Stadt) station.
A short walk to the pier where we bought the tickets for the KD boat. We got a discount by showing the RP ticket.
While waiting, Tykewife tried a glass of Hildegard wine - named for a local female saint. It was just ok.
The weather was cold and drizzly so we got seats inside and had some Black Forest cake and apple strudel - neither
as good as previous ones. There were a lot of Japanese tourists on board. The trip was ok, obviously would have
been better if the weather was sunny and warmer. The Japanese got off at St. Goar, making the boat almost seem
deserted. We went to Boppard, the final stop of the day. We walked with no difficulty to the train station, getting
good directions the two times we asked along the way. Train to Koblenz where we again used the internet - no free
cokes or candy today! I got another 100 Euro from the ATM, just to make sure I didn't run out before we left. I
think I could have made it without it, but I didn't want to come up short.
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