For years I stayed at the Pension (now Haus) “Weiher”, located directly beneath Neuschwanstein. Nice place with a terrific view, but when I branched out to farms it was time to change. These days I always try to stay in or around Brunnen, which is technically a small farming community within Schwangau. Although accommodations in the area are abundant, not all have e-mail or fax so I am selective about picking the right place. Of course, if you are the type who travels on the cuff and doesn’t mind knocking on a few doors to secure a room, then you have plenty of choices.

I first stayed at the Lutz in 2001. It is situated right on the lake, and all the rooms offer a spectacular view of the castles.

Although Frau Lutz speaks no English, she has had more than her share of English speaking guests over the years, according to the guestbook. Their proximity to the castles makes it an ideal location. But she remembers me, and puts me into a small, but comfortable, Einzelzimmer on the second floor for E25 per day. This will be home for the next three days.

It doesn’t take long to get settled in. The only problem is it’s pouring down, the castles are obscured by low hanging clouds, and temps have dipped into the 40’s. But there is one place that always cheers me up regardless of the weather, and that is the Internet Café in Füssen, the Zimmermann-Multimedia at Luitpoldstraße 11.

It is located in a movie rental store, sort of like Blockbuster, right on the main street near the main traffic circle. If you are familiar with the layout of the town you probably know the general area.

It appears to be a slow day at the shop when I arrive. There is only one other person there using a terminal. The rate is E3 per hour, which was the best deal I had on the whole trip. I catch up on some postings from the Stammtisch, read the travel boards, check the scores, and then the weather for the next five days. You don’t want to know.

Leaving the internet place I head over to the Fußgänger zone. The crowds are pretty thin outside, but the shops are full inside. I make my way over to Woolworth’s (remember when every town in America had one of those?). No trip to Füssen is complete without a visit here. It’s like a ritual.

After picking up a few goodies I decide to brave the weather and head over to a favorite spot for dinner. It is now about 6 p.m., and dark comes early on a day like this.

When I show up at what I always remember being the “Wienerwald”, I am surprised to find the place has undergone a makeover. It now looks like one of those Greek taverns I remember from when I was in Athens years ago. It has been renamed the “Beim Olevenbauer”, whatever that means. But I’m in luck, because according to the menu they still serve that ever reliable staple Schnitzel.

Sep 30 - Friday - Day 14

After a rather chilly night I feel bold enough to still venture out for an early morning stroll around the farm. It helps work up an appetite for breakfast, as if I need an excuse. Surprisingly, the skies have cleared up quite a bit since yesterday. With some luck we might even see some sun later on.

Frau Lutz serves a late breakfast (House rules). Promptly at 8:30 I take my place in the breakfast room at the same table with some of the other guests. We quickly strike up a conversation and I get acquainted with a young couple from Holland who have been here for a week, but are heading home today. There is also a nice german lady from Stuttgart who is retired, and has been coming to the farm for years. She admits to being an avid hiker.

The room is nice and cozy with a crackling fire going in the big ceramic stove which takes up one entire wall. Heck, give me a few Bier and some books and I could camp out in here all day.

I don’t have any hard plans for the day, and since the weather may or may not co-operate, I decide to just wing it. I am especially concerned with exploring the area from Füssen over to Nesselwang. This is great farm country, and I always like to take the opportunity to recon the small towns for possible future visits. Plus, this is the way I intend to head out when I leave in a couple more days, and I don’t want any surprises.

For the past two years there has been major construction in and around Nesselwang. But this time around they have finally finished up widening the roads, and the Umleitung which used to be a pain are no more.

Basically, I am covering a big circle from Füssen to Nesselwang, back over to Hopferau, and then end up back at the castles. It’s a good day for a drive in the country.

By around noontime the weather gods throw me a bone by allowing the skies to clear up. After 5 straight days of rain I’ll take it. As I head back to Füssen my plan is to get in as much video and camera time as possible. After all, I have to maintain film continuity so as not to be in Oberammergau one minute and the next I'm on the Rhine with nothing in between.

On the outside chance that the Tegelberg will be open I make my back over there. I’m in luck. At the ticket window there is already a line forming waiting for the cable car up. However the only thing I’m here for is a ticket for a ride on the Sommerrodelbahn. Fortunately they will be opening in about twenty minutes. Rides are E2.50 each or five for E10. One of these days I am going to go all out and go for the max.

and finally another visit to the Internet Café. At least I can say this day was well rounded.

To cap off the day I head over to a favorite spot for dinner. Along the Romantic Road (B17) at Münchner Str. 5 in Schwangau is the Gasthof zur Post. BB and I first tried this place back in 2000, and I have made a point to stop here ever since. Today’s treat is a huge stuffed pork cutlet, finely breaded and pan-fried to perfection. Topped off with a generous serving of german potato salad and a couple of “Kalten” Bier, it’s a meal to die for (or from).

To work off the meal I do a final drive by at the castles. It is dark enough that the floodlights are on, which forces me to stop long enough to try and get a decent night shot at a distance.

Back at the farm I revisit the plan for tomorrow. I intend to head over into Austria for my obligatory Stroh Rum run. Plus, I want to pay a repeat visit to another favorite watering hole made famous by Rick Steves, with a little help from the man himself... King Ludwig.

Oct 1 - Saturday - Day 15

Well so much for the teasing from the weatherman. Sometime between my last Bier for the night, and this morning, someone snuck one in on me (yes, that is a word… if you happen to be a Texican).

At breakfast it is raining so hard it sounds like rocks on the roof. Frau Lutz doesn’t help matters by informing me that this is the order for the day. Tourists beware.

By now I am used to this routine, so I figure nothing ventured nothing gained. I’m going to go for it. Fortunately, I was able to get everything done yesterday, so today I can afford as a throw away. In retrospect, I should probably have moved on and just stayed somewhere on the Bodensee, but I decide to stick it out.

The castles are completely obscured and I don’t even bother making the drive. Instead I head over to the border crossing into Austria, where I make my umpteenth visit to the newly renovated rest stop that has been there for years, the “Weisshaus Stub’n”.

Back in the good old days, when there were real border crossing points, this one was always good for a nice Stau in both directions. I used to get my passport stamped here. But now it is just another point in the road, with only the blue Österreich signs to tell where you are.

Nevertheless, I make a stop for my annual rum run. I always get the 80 proof stuff, just to ward off the winter chill, plus it also makes a good varnish remover if it doesn’t eat up your stomach lining first. (The building in the background is the remains of the former border guards offices. Now they are just a warehouse.)

The next stop is one I first visited in 1994. Located in the tiny community of Unterpinswang, on the way to Reutte, is the "Gutshof Zum Schluxen”. Formerly known as the “Schluxenhof”, it was a large farm in ancient times. It was also a favorite hang out for King Ludwig on his often midnight rides about the countryside. His room, number 5, is still rented out and during my stay here in ’94 I tried to get in, but unfortunately it was already booked.

The place has also been made famous by none other than our boy Rick Steves. He has put them on the map by mentioning it in all of his books which deal with Austria. And so as a result, these days, it is not unusual to see tour buses stopping over for a night or two, even though it is out in the middle of nowhere.

Today is no exception. I arrive to find not one, but two, buses parked off to the side. The outdoor tables are full so I retreat inside to grab a seat near the bar. The kitchen is humming as they ferry plates of food back and forth. I just order up a Bier.

By the time I am ready to leave, the rain is waiting to escort me back to Füssen. I know when to throw in the towel, and so I plan to call it a day and get on back to pack up for heading out tomorrow...

-